You've found a parcel that looks good on paper. Now you need to answer the question that matters most: can you actually build a barndominium here? This is the systematic evaluation process — from satellite view to boots on the ground.
Phase 1: Desktop Evaluation (30 minutes)
Before you visit the property, evaluate these from your computer:
Zoning & Regulations
- Check AcreScore for county-level zoning data
- Search county GIS for the parcel's zoning designation
- Look up deed restrictions on the county Register of Deeds
- Check for ETJ (Extra-Territorial Jurisdiction) if near a city
Flood & Environmental
- FEMA flood map (msc.fema.gov) — identify the zone
- Check for wetlands (US Fish & Wildlife wetlands mapper)
- Look for environmental issues (EPA Envirofacts for nearby contamination)
Utilities & Access
- Satellite view: Is there a road to the parcel? Is it maintained?
- Power lines visible on satellite/street view?
- Is the area served by a water district? (Usually not for rural, but check)
Topography
- USGS topographic maps: Check elevation contours. Look for flat or gently sloped areas large enough for a building pad (minimum 100' × 100').
- Drainage patterns: Where does water flow during rain? Avoid low spots and natural drainage channels.
- Google Earth terrain view: Quick visual check of slope and features.
Phase 2: Phone Calls (1 hour)
County Building Department
"I'm looking at [parcel address/ID]. Can I build a post-frame residential structure there? What code applies and what do I need for a permit?"
Power Company
"I need to establish residential service at [parcel address]. What's the nearest point of connection and what's the cost to extend?"
Neighbors
Find adjacent property owners in county records. Call or visit. Ask about:
- Well depth and water quality
- Road conditions year-round
- Any known issues (flooding, drainage, neighbor disputes)
- Internet service they use
Phase 3: Site Visit (2-3 hours)
Walk the property. Bring:
- A copy of the plat/survey (or at least the parcel boundaries on your phone)
- A phone with GPS for photos with location tags
- A soil probe or shovel (to check surface soil type)
- Rain boots (if recent rain — you want to see how the land drains)
What to Evaluate On-Site
- Building pad location: Find the flattest area that's NOT in a low spot. You want natural drainage away from the building. Mark it mentally.
- Driveway route: Where would you connect to the road? How far? What's the grade? Is there a creek crossing needed? (Creek crossings can cost $10-30K.)
- Well location: Uphill from where septic will go. Note distance from building pad (50-100' minimum separation required in most states).
- Septic area: Downhill from the well, relatively flat area for drain field. Avoid rocky outcrops or areas with standing water.
- Tree clearing needed: How many trees need to come down for the building pad, driveway, and septic area? Estimate acres of clearing needed.
- Soil surface check: Dig 12-18" with a shovel. What do you see? Dark loamy topsoil over clay is good. Solid rock at 12" is expensive. Standing water at 12" means high water table.
- Boundary verification: Can you find any survey pins or markers? Do the boundaries match your understanding?
- Neighbor observations: What's built on adjacent parcels? Any concerning uses?
Phase 4: Professional Evaluation ($1,500-$3,500)
If the desktop, phone, and site visit checks pass, invest in professional evaluation:
- Survey ($400-$1,500): Boundary survey with pins set. Non-negotiable before purchase.
- Perc test ($300-$500): Determines if conventional septic will work. Usually done by a licensed septic installer or the county health department.
- Soil boring ($500-$1,000): Engineering-grade soil analysis for foundation design. Reveals bearing capacity, rock depth, water table level.
- Elevation certificate ($500-$800): Only needed if near a flood zone boundary. Confirms whether your building pad is above BFE.
The Scoring Framework
Rate each factor 1-5 and total them up:
- Zoning/regulations (0-5): 5 = no zoning, 0 = prohibited
- Flood risk (0-5): 5 = Zone X no history, 0 = Zone AE with past flooding
- Topography (0-5): 5 = flat/gentle slope, 0 = steep or low-lying
- Soil (0-5): 5 = good perc + stable bearing, 0 = rock or high water table
- Access (0-5): 5 = county road frontage, 0 = landlocked
- Utilities (0-5): 5 = power at property line, 0 = 1,000+ feet to extend
- Water (0-5): 5 = known good wells <100', 0 = unknown or poor reports
30-35: Excellent buildability. Proceed with confidence.
22-29: Good with caveats. Budget for the weak areas.
15-21: Challenging. Significant cost or risk in multiple areas.
Below 15: Walk away unless the land is extremely cheap and you're experienced.